Filament box with 6 filament spools on single pulleys, the short filament tubes (version A) and a silica gel bag on the lid.

Filament box with 6 filament spools on single pulleys, the long filament tubes (version B) and a silica gel box on the lid.

Filament box with 5 filament spools on wide pulleys, the short filament tubes (version A) and a silica gel box on the lid.

These are purely digital products, you get all the files you need to print the parts yourself in a ZIP folder. It contains the STL files for all required components and variants, as well as additional accessories.

It is essential to print the Filament_Outlets with 100% infill and a mechanically resilient material (PETG, ABS, ASA, etc.). Tests of an external tester have shown that these components, printed with PLA, can break when they are clamped or after a while after assembly.

• 24 pcs Ball bearings 608
• 1 m Threaded rod M8
• 12 pcs Nuts M8 DIN934

Saw the threaded rod into two pieces of equal length with a hacksaw. Here measure the maximum possible length in the selected airtight box.

For the air tight Iris 50L box used here, saw the threaded rod into two 485 mm long pieces. For the Iris 62.8 Qt and the Iris 46.6 Qt you need to measure the maximum possible rod length at the bottom of the boxes.

Clamp the threaded rods securely before sawing, wear protective goggles and gloves when cutting.

Beware of sharp metal grades! Deburr the threaded rods with a file after sawing.

• 2 pcs 006100_Rod_Mount

Layer height 0.2 mm and 20% infill (rectangular)

• 24 pcs 006200_Pulley_F##
• 10 pcs 006300_Spacer

Layer height 0.2 mm and 100% infill (rectangular)

The pulley is a PrintFit System part:

The standard 3D print template of the pulley is F+0. If the ball bearing cannot be pressed into this version, then print version F+1, whose recess is 0.1 mm larger. If the ball bearing is too loose in the standard version F+0, then print version F-1, which has a smaller bore.

It’s best to first print just one pulley and press in a ball bearing as a test. If this works without any problems then the remaining parts can be printed.

To press the ball bearings into the pulleys, use the tools provided in the 3D print files. This makes it much easier to press in the bearings and to press them out again if necessary.

Use the included 3D printed tools for easier assembly and disassembly of the ball bearings in the pulleys.

• 1 pc 000400_Tool_Bearing_Press_In
• 1 pc 000500_Tool_Bearing_Press_Out
• 1 pc 000600_Tool_Bearing_Press_Counter

Layer height 0.2 mm and 100% infill (rectangular)

• 20 pcs 006400_Quick_Lock_Nut_T##

Layer height 0.2 mm and 100% infill (rectangular)

The quick-lock nut is a PrintFit System part:

The standard 3D printing template of the quick-lock nut is the T+4. If it is difficult or impossible to screw onto the threaded rod, then print the next larger version T+5, which creates a larger thread gap. If the standard version T+4 of the nut is too loose on the threaded rod, then print version T+3, which results in a smaller thread gap.

Prepare one 608 ball bearing, one 3D printed pulley and the press-in tool.

Insert the ball bearing on the side of the pulley with the larger opening.

Position the press-in tool and press firmly until the ball bearing is completely pressed against the lower edge in the pulley.

If the ball bearing has been pressed in correctly, it will sit parallel to the pulley and approx. 2 mm deep from the pulley surface.

The ball bearings must sit securely and firmly, as well as parallel and not tilted in the pulleys! Important so that the filament spools do not block later!

Now prepare all remaining pulleys according to the same scheme.

Insert one of the M8 threaded rods (485 mm) into one of the rod mounts and secure it with two M8 nuts on both sides. To do this, simply use two 13 mm open-ended wrenches. Do not tighten too much so that the 3D printed mount is not damaged. The short, free threaded rod end should still protrude approx. 13 mm beyond the nut.

Then put on a pulley and tighten it with a third nut so that the nut and the threaded rod end are flush.

Now do the same on the second hole of the rod mount with the second threaded rod. Then it should look like the photo.

Now pull on the single pulleys and spacers on the long free side. Repeat this in following pattern: pulley – spacer – pulley, and then repeat. So thread a total of 10 pulleys and 5 spacers.

The spacers prevent that later, when two filament spools run close to each other, a stationary spool is driven from a moving one, or a stationary spool is blocking a moving one.

Check that all adjacent pulleys are separated by a spacer and that the pulleys are not hitting anywhere else.

Repeat on the second threaded rod.

Once all the pulleys that should later run between the brackets have been drawn up, the end on the second side is prepared. In addition to the rod mount, you also need 2 pulleys and 6 M8 nuts.

First of all, 2 nuts are screwed on, the free ends of the threaded rod should protrude approx. 30 mm.

Thread the rod mount onto the two threaded rods.

Secure the rod mount with two nuts. As before: do not overtighten so that the 3D printed mount is not damaged.

Put on 2 pulleys and secure them with nuts.

This is what the assembled filament spool storage with single pulleys should now look like.

In the last step, the pulleys are fixed in place with the quick-lock nuts.

The nuts have a snap mechanism and can be easily squeezed together by hand. Make sure that the step of both parts is on the same side.

The quick-release nuts can be easily opened again with a flathead screwdriver. To do this, insert a screwdriver into the longitudinal gap of the nut and turn it slightly.

If you want to fix a pair of pulleys in a certain position, simply clip on two quick-lock nuts to the left and right of it. A single pulley, a spacer and another single pulley should then sit between the nuts. The short step on the nuts must point towards the ball bearings. Then fix the pulleys between the nuts by screw them. There must be a spacer between the two pulleys.

If you only want to fix a single pulley, simply clip on two nuts to the left and right of it and then fix the pulley by tightening the quick-lock nuts.

Congratulations, the filament spool storage is ready. Time for a beer!

• 20 pcs Ball bearings 608
• 1 m Threaded rod M8
• 8 pcs Nuts M8 DIN934

For the variant with the wide pulleys, the threaded rod is sawn into two pieces of equal length with a hacksaw.

The calculation of the threaded rod length depends on the space available in the selected airtight box and the selected number and length of the wide pulleys. See the calculation formula below.

Clamp the threaded rods securely before sawing, wear protective goggles and gloves when cutting.

Beware of sharp metal grades! Deburr the threaded rods with a file after sawing.

The wide pulleys are available in 6 different widths from 50 to 100 mm running surface in 10 mm increments.

The width of the template refers to the width of the running surface L without brims on the side. See dimensions in photo.

• 2 pcs 006100_Rod_Mount

Layer height 0.2 mm and 20% infill (rectangular)

• 10 pcs 006220_Pulley_Wide_L80_F##
• 8 pcs 006300_Spacer

Layer height 0.2 mm and 20% infill (rectangular)

The wide pulley is a PrintFit System part:

The standard 3D print template of the wide pulley is F+0. If the ball bearing cannot be pressed into this version, then print version F+1, whose recess is 0.1 mm larger. If the ball bearing is too loose in the standard version, then print version F-1, which has a smaller hole for the ball bearing.

It’s best to first print just one pulley and press in a ball bearing as a test. If this works without any problems then the remaining parts can be printed.

To press the ball bearings into the pulleys, use the tools provided in the 3D print files. This makes it much easier to press in the bearings and to press them out again if necessary.

Optional for easier installation of the ball bearings in the wide pulleys.

• 1 pc 000400_Tool_Bearing_Press_In
• 1 pc 000600_Tool_Bearing_Press_Counter

Layer height 0.2 mm and 100% infill (rectangular)

Prepare the wide pulley, two 608 ball bearings and the bearing press-in 3D printed tool.

Put a 608 ball bearing on one side of the wide pulley.

Place the press-in tool and press it firmly with the heel of your hand. Press until the ball bearing is completely pressed against the stop in the wide pulley.

If the ball bearing has been pressed in correctly, it will sit parallel to the pulley and approximately 2.5 mm deep in the pulley.

The ball bearings must sit securely and firmly, as well as parallel and not tilted in the pulleys! Important so that the filament spools do not block later!

Now prepare all remaining pulleys according to the same scheme.

If something goes wrong when pressing in the bearing, or if it needs to be removed from the pulleys, it is best to use a threaded rod and the Bearing_Press_Counter tool. How this works is explained in the chapter Pressing a 608 ball bearing out of a wide pulley in the appendix.

Insert one of the M8 threaded rods, shortened to 478 mm, into one of the rod mounts and secure it with two M8 nuts on both sides. To do this, simply use two 13 mm open-ended wrenches. Do not overtighten to avoid damaging the 3D printed part.

The next step is to fix the second rod to the second hole. Afterwards it should look like the photo.

Now put on the pulleys and spacers on the long free side of the rod. Do this in sets of pulley – spacer – pulley, and then repeat.

As in this case, thread a total of 5 wide pulleys and 4 spacers between them.

The spacers prevent that later, when two filament spools run close to each other, a stationary spool is driven from a moving one, or a stationary spool is blocking a moving one.

Check that all adjacent pulleys are separated by a spacer and that the pulleys are not hitting anywhere else.

Repeat on the second threaded rod.

Once all the wide pulleys have been mounted, the end on the second side is prepared. In addition to the second rod mount, you also need four M8 nuts.

Two nuts, one per threaded rod, are now screwed on. It is important that the pulleys are not clamped together, but that they still have a clearance of 1 to 2 mm.

Do not tension the pulleys with the nuts! If the ball bearings are clamped with the nuts, they no longer rotate as easily and the unwinding of the filament spools becomes more difficult or even get blocked.

Thread the rod mount onto the two threaded rods.

Secure the rod mount with two M8 nuts. As before: do not tighten too much so that the 3D printed mount is not damaged.

After attaching the rod mount, check whether the pulleys still have a slight axial clearance (1 to 2 mm) along the rods and can rotate freely. If they are clamped together with the nuts, the rotation of the pulleys will be disabled.

The fully assembled wide pulley version of the filament spool storage.

Congratulations, the filament spool storage is ready. Time for a beer!

• 1 pc airtight box (shown here is the Iris 50L box used)

Of course, other air-tight boxes can also be used, as already mentioned, please check the dimensions first and adjust the length of the threaded rod and the number of pulleys.

I have 4 of the linked boxes (Iris 50L) in operation and I am very satisfied, they are super air-tight and offer enough space for up to 6 filament spools.

• PTFE tube OD4 ID3

Alternatively, a PTFE tube with an outer diameter of 4 mm (OD4) and an inner diameter of 2 mm (ID2) or an OD5 ID3 tube can also be used.

This picture shows the three possible PTFE tube variants with an 1.75 mm filament. It fits well with the ID2, and of course at ID3 there is more space and therefore less friction. This is an advantage if you want to build variant B with long filament guides.

For variant A – Simple plug

• 6 pcs 006900_Plug_Variant_A_OD4_F##

Layer height 0.2 mm and 100% infill (rectangular)

If an OD5 PTFE tube is used, then print the STL file 007000_Plug_Variant_A_OD5_F##.

The plug variant A is a PrintFit System part:

The standard 3D print template of the plug is the F+1. If the PTFE tube cannot be inserted into this version, then print version F+2, whose conical hole for the PTFE tube is 0.1 mm larger. If the PTFE tube in the standard version is too loose, then print version F+0, which has a smaller bore diameter.

For variant B – Plug is fixed at the filament box

• 6 pcs 007100_Plug_Variant_B_OD4_F##

Layer height 0.2 mm and 100% infill (rectangular)

If an OD5 PTFE tube is used then print the STL file 007200_Plug_Variant_B_OD5_F##.

The plug variant B is a PrintFit System part:

The standard 3D print model of the plug for variant B is the F+2. If the PTFE tube cannot be inserted into this version, then print version F+3, whose conical hole for the PTFE tube is 0.1 mm larger. If the PTFE tube in the standard version is too loose, then print version F+1, which has a smaller bore diameter.

• 6 pcs 006500_Filament_Outlet_OD4_F##
• 6 pcs 006700_Nut_T##
• 6 pcs 006800_Clamping_Ring_W##

Layer height 0.2 mm and 100% infill (rectangular)

If an OD5 PTFE tube is used, then use the 006600_Filament_Outlet_OD5_F## STL file.

It is best to first print just one piece of the standard templates: Filament_Outlet_F+1, Nut_T+5 and Clamping_Ring_W+0 and test the assembly with a short piece of PTFE tubing.

First, a PTFE tube is inserted into the filament outlet and pushed into it until it stops. This should not be too easy or too difficult, otherwise just print a outlet with a narrower or wider hole.

Then push on the clamping ring until it clicks into place and cannot be pressed any further. The cone on the ring presses the toothed clamps inwards onto the PTFE tube, and thereby fixing it.

Depending on the 3D printer setup and manufacturing deviations, it may be that the clamping ring is not flush with the end of the filament outlet. A little deviation (up to 2 mm) is not a problem, but if it is larger, it is advisable to print a clamping ring with other dimensions (e.g.: W+1 or W-1).

If the clamping ring cannot be pushed on as far as the end of the filament outlet, then print the next larger clamping ring W+1. The inner cone has a larger diameter and can be pushed further onto the outlet.

If the clamping ring only engages too far to the printed thread, the 3D printer appears to have printed it too large. Then simply print out the next smaller W-1 clamping ring and repeat the test.

For the version with 6 filament outlets, mark the drilling pattern shown on the box using a marker pen. To do this, mark 6 holes in the middle at a horizontal distance of 75 mm and 45 mm above the floor. The bores must have a diameter of 16 mm so that the filament outlets fit cleanly and seal well.

To make life a little easier, Flo created a drilling template to mark the correct distances, here to download on thingiverse.

If, as with the wide pulley version of the box, only 5 holes are required, then drill the holes at a distance of 87 mm in the middle of the airtight box.

Prepare the cordless screwdriver, 2 mm and 4 mm wood drill bits and the step drill.

On the step drill, all steps larger than 16 mm can be taped off as a precaution – so nothing goes wrong when opening the holes.

Sharp wood drill bits are very suitable for the plastic of the box, it is important to exert only little pressure on the box – too much pressure could break it, so it’s best to pre-drill with the small 2 mm drill and then prepare the hole for the step drill with the 4 mm drill. Use a slow drill speed at step drill and slowly widen the hole.

Wear protective goggles to protect against chips.

This is what the box should look like with the 16 mm holes.

Insert the selected filament outlet from the inside through the hole and screw it with the 3D printed nut from the outside.

Tighten the nut only by hand – hold the inside against it – check if the filament outlet is pulled completely into the hole.

Repeat this for the other 5 filament outlets.

Cut the selected PTFE tubes into short pieces of 10 to 20 cm using a box cutter. Make the cut neatly straight. Push the pieces of tubing into the filament outlets until they are stopped on the inside edge, some force is required.

Use cut-resistant underlay, wear work gloves.

If the tube is fully inserted in the outlet, it is fixed with a clamping ring. The cone of the clamping ring is pushed over the cone of the toothed gripper of the outlet and thus clamps the tube. When pressing on, always hold the outlet on the inside of the box against the pressure. The embossed arrow on the clamping ring must point towards the filament box.

The PTFE tube is sealed by the 3D printed plug, due to a cone on the inside which also clamps the plug on the tube.

Repeat for the remaining filament outlets.

Use a box cutter to cut the selected PTFE tubes into long pieces, depending on needed length to the printer, in this example it’s 90 cm. Make the cut neatly straight.

Make the cut clean and straight.

Use cut-resistant underlay, wear work gloves.

Push the tubes into the filament outlets until they line up on the inside of the outlet.

If the tube is fully inserted in the filament outlet, it is fixed with the clamping ring. The cone of the clamping ring is pushed over the cone of the toothed gripper of the outlet and thus clamps the tube. When pressing on, always fix the filament outlet on the inside and hold against it. The embossed arrow on the Clamping_Ring must point in the direction of the box.

The long PTFE tube is then sealed by simply pressing it from above into the 3D printed plug, sealing it with a cone on the inside and at the same time fixing it.

Now repeat the procedure for all remaining filament outlets.

The clipped-on plugs of variant B can also be fixed with super glue for a better hold. To do this, simply coat the clamping ring with a little super glue and clip on the plug.

With this variant, always make sure before printing that the PTFE tube cannot be pulled or squeezed into the extruder or the mechanics on the 3D printer.

Included are signs for:

• ABS
• ASA
• CARB – for carbon fiber reinforced filaments
• FLEX – for flexible filaments
• GLOW – for fluorescent filaments
• HIPS
• PA
• PC
• PCTG
• PEEK
• PEI
• PETG
• PLA
• PP
• PVA
• PVB
• PVC
• PVDF
• SPEC – for special filaments
• TPE
• TPU

• 1 pc 009600_PETG_Sign

Depending on which material is to be stored later, select the appropriate sign, for example PLA, PC, ABS, TPE, etc.

Layer height 0.2 mm and 100% infill (rectangular)

• 6 pcs 008400_Contrast_Plate_F##

Depending on the signs printed in light or dark filament and in the number as required.

Layer height 0.2 mm and 100% infill (rectangular)

The contrast plate is a PrintFit System part:

The standard 3D printing template of the contrast plate is the F+1. If this cannot be clipped into the printed sign, then print version F+2, whose gap to the sign is 0.1 mm larger. If the sign sits too loosely on the contrast plate, then print version F+0, which has a smaller gap to the material sign part.

• 6 pcs 008200_Clip_Variant_A

Layer height 0.2 mm and 100% infill (rectangular)

• 6 pcs 008300_Clip_Variant_B

Layer height 0.2 mm and 100% infill (rectangular)

Assembly is very easy, place the material plate upside down on the table and clip the contrast plate in from behind as shown. If it is too loose or does not fit into the sign, simply print the next smaller or larger STL file of the contrast plate.

Orange PETG filament sign with black contrast plate.

Black PETG filament sign with white contrast plate.

To attach the material labels, attach the clip variant A to the clamping ring of the filament outlet. Then insert the material label including the contrast plate into the opening provided on the clip. The sign is fixed to the clip by the slight cone on the contrast plate.

To attach the material labels, attach the clip variant B to the tube plug. A small triangle on the front of the clip shows the direction of attachment. Then insert the material label including the contrast plate into the opening provided on the clip. The sign is fixed to the clip by the cone on the tenon of the contrast plate.

All you need is scissors and double-sided tape.

Cut the tape so that it fit under the filament spool storage. Remove the protective film and stick the filament holder in the rear half of the filament dry box.

When positioning, it is best to insert the largest spool of filament to be stored and to check if it hits the back wall of the airtight box.

Leave enough distance to the walls of the box and after gluing in, test whether the largest spool of filament to be stored can rotate freely. Otherwise change position and test again.

Using a 3D printed retaining clip, the silica gel bag is clipped and held on the lid of the filament dry box. By bending the clip sideways, the bag holder can then easily be removed from the lid. This means that the desiccant can be regenerated and simply reinserted into the clamp later.

The retaining clip, which is later mounted in the lid, is ready to clip in the silica gel bracket.

Desiccant holder clipped into the retaining clip.

• 1 pc Silica gel bag approx. 15 x 17 x 3 cm

The photo shows the two possible versions of the clip. On the left you can see the Clip_H3, which has 3 mm high bars and can be mounted in covers without ribs. On the right you can see the Clip_H12, which has 12 mm high bars, suitable for lids with ribs.

• 1 pc 007300_Silica_Gel_Clip_H12
• 2 pcs 007400_Silica_Gel_Screw_T##
• 1 pc 007500_Silica_Gel_Bag_Bracket
• 2 pcs 007600_Silica_Gel_Bag_Side_Support_F##

Layer height 0.2 mm and 100% infill (rectangular)

The screw is a PrintFit System part:

The standard 3D printing template of the screw is the T+5. If it is difficult or impossible to screw into the clip, then print the next larger version T+6, which creates a larger thread gap. If the standard version of the screw is too loose then print version T+4, which results in a smaller thread gap in combination with the clamp.

The side support is a PrintFit System part:

The standard 3D print model for the side support is F+0. This part will later be clipped into the bracket. If it is difficult or impossible to clip into the bracket, then print the next larger version F+1. In this 3D printing template, the recess is 0.1 mm wider. If the standard version of the side support does not sit securely in the bracket, then print version F-1, whose recess is 0.1 mm smaller than the width of the bracket.

Clip the two side supports into the bracket. To do this, insert the side support into the recess provided in the bracket on one side and press it down. Repeat for the second side support.

Push the 500 g silica gel bag into the holder until it sits in the middle. Make sure that it is limited by the side supports and sits well.

For the Iris 50L airtight box, the holes must be at least 100 mm from the front edge.

Place the markings in the middle of the lid.

If the holes to be are marked, it is best to place a piece of sacrificial wood underneath and first pre-drill with the 2 mm wood drill.

Then drill the final holes with the 10 mm wood drill.

Again it is best to pre-drill the holes with the 2 mm wood drill bit and then set the final holes with the 10 mm wood drill. Drill slowly so that the cover is not damaged when it is pierced.

Wear safety glasses to protect yourself from chips!

Insert the 3D printed screws through the holes from the outside.

Place the printed clip on the screws and tighten from the outside by hand or from the inside with a flathead screwdriver. Do not overtighten, so that the 3D printed parts are not damaged.

If a screwdriver is used, remember that the screws from the inside should not be tightened “clockwise” but “counterclockwise”.

Check that the clip is screwed tightly and correctly. The clip must not come loose when the filament box is in operation.

Insert the silica gel holder in the middle of the clip on the lid and let it snap into place.

Put the lid on the box and check whether the holder and the silica gel bag are seated properly.

Check the stability of the screwed clip and the secure fit of the silica gel bag. It must not come loose when operating the filament dry box.

Thread the filament of the filament spools to be stored into the filament outlets and adjust the pulleys to the width of the filament spools. Gradually insert all the spools and then close with the lid.

In order to remove a pressed-in ball bearing from a pulley, the 3D printed parts Tool_Bearing_Press_Out and Tool_Bearing_Press_Counter are required.

Place the pulley on the counter so that the open side faces down towards the desk. This allows pressing out the ball bearing and to fall into the counter part.

Place the press-out tool in the middle of the ball bearing and press firmly,

until the ball bearing is fully pushed out.

The ball bearing is already removed from the pulley and can be removed from the counter part.

In order to remove the ball bearings from the wide pulley, the 3D printed part Tool_Bearing_Press_Counter, a M8 nut, and a threaded M8 rod are required.

Place the wide pulley on the press-out counter so that the two cylinders are concentric. This means that the pressed out ball bearing can then fall into the 3D printed counter.

Pass the threaded rod through the upper ball bearing and guide it slightly at an angle to the lower ball bearing.

Then press lightly, change position a little if necessary and press again. Repeat until the lower ball bearing completely falls out of the pulley.

Once the ball bearing has been pressed out, remove the wide pulley from the counter and remove the ball bearing from it. Check the ball bearing to see whether it was damaged by pressing out.

The second ball bearing can then be pressed out quite easily. To do this, screw the M8 nut onto the threaded rod until a little of the threaded rod protrudes on one side.

Place the wide pulley, which now only has one ball bearing, back onto the press-out counter and insert the threaded rod with nut from above. Then press on the threaded rod until the ball bearing falls into the counter.

Done, now the second ball bearing has been pressed out of the wide pulley.